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Liberia | Zikoko!
  • When it came in March 2014, no one knew what it was. 

    At first, everyone thought it was malaria because of the fevers and aches. Some said cholera because the rainy season means cholera season. But cholera doesn’t leave people bleeding to death from their mouths and noses. 

    Others thought it was just isolated cases of people getting poisoned, but if there’s anything Gloria’s life has taught her, it’s that nothing is a coincidence. 

    A teenage Gloria was living in Liberia’s capital, Monrovia when the rumours of war began in late ‘89. Charles Taylor, who had just moved to Cote d’Ivoire in December, was starting an uprising to topple the government of his former boss, Samuel Doe. 

    When war comes, families are scattered in every direction, scampering for safety, like lizards when a hawk descends. 

    Gloria’s parents asked her to gather all the other children in the family, and take them out of the country by road until things became certain. Gloria and the children travelled through dense forests and harmattan dust roads to the North of Liberia. Her sister headed east to Freetown, Sierra Leone, a country that was itself less than eighteen months from their own civil war. 

    On the 23rd of December, Gloria reached a Liberia-Cote d’Ivoire border town in Nimba County, the biggest of Liberia’s 15 counties. 

    On the Ivoirien side of the border, another exodus was happening, led by Charles Taylor, and by the dawn of Christmas eve, Charles Taylor re-entered Liberia forcefully with 100 rebels. Waiting with their allegiance were thousands of people from Liberia’s Northern tribes – the uprising was alive. Doe’s government responded by sending two battalions of the Armed Forces. 

    And so, the First Liberian Civil War began, with Gloria and the children trapped in unfamiliar territory, surrounded by strangers. Gloria, the oldest of the pack, was 15. 

    It took a ceasefire in ‘95 and an election in ‘97 for Gloria and her family to return home. Charles Taylor, the rebel leader she met at the border, was now President of the new government. 

    That year, Gloria returned home to Monrovia, not just because it was now safe, but because she’d finally graduated from high school. She was 23. But as she returned home to reunite with her family, she was carrying a virus in her, one she went on to infect her entire family of nine with – chickenpox. 

    Every infection, conflict or rumour of conflict since then has met a vigilant Gloria. 

    When Liberians finally had a name for this new ‘thing’, the virus had begun to spread, and by the end of March 2014, Liberia had confirmed its first two cases of Ebola.

    While Ebola travels by physical contact with the bodily fluids of the infected, fear has no such physical limitations. Entrances of homes had chlorinated water for handwashing on entry or exit. Hand sanitisers were lifestyle essential. But this came too late for some people. 

    Because some of the first symptoms of Ebola are malaria-like – fever, pains, fatigue, aches and a bad appetite – some of the earliest infected were healthcare workers. They approached these first Ebola patients, touching them with the assumption that it was a familiar sickness. By mid-June, the first known deaths in Monrovia had occurred as a result of the virus – of the seven people who died, one of them was a nurse, including four other members of her household, one of them a baby. 

    In July 2014, Gloria had to see a doctor for pain unrelated to Ebola – it was a sharp pain travelling up and down her spine. To get specialist care, she had to travel to Tapeta, a small town over 300 kilometres from home, somewhere in Nimba County. It was going to be a short trip, but still, she worried about leaving Cherry and Blooming behind – Cherry’s her niece, and Blooming is Cherry’s daughter. 

    Blooming was born in 2011 with congenital glaucoma, a condition that caused raised pressure in her eyes. All vision is currently impaired. 

    Cherry’s mother had heard about an eye doctor in Ganta and thought it’d be a good idea to seek help for Blooming’s eyes. 

    “Haven’t you heard that it has reached Ganta,” Gloria said before heading for Tapeta, “why don’t we wait till it’s safe?” 

    A few days later, Cherry called. “I’m calling to check on you,” she said, “but we’re in Ganta. Mama told us to go to Ganta to see the eye doctor.”

    And as Gloria worried about their safety over the phone, Cherry tried to reassure her, “Aunty, if I’m the only one, then Ebola won’t reach anyone.” Cherry, Gloria’s darling niece, was a hermit who barely socialised.

    “Take care of yourself and the baby,” Gloria said. When she returned to Monrovia, mother and child hadn’t returned from Ganta.

    Ganta is an ambitious city of fewer than 50,000 people, just south of the Guinea border. It’s also the second-most populous city in Liberia.

    There are multiple accounts about how Ebola reached Ganta. One account says that in July, a street vendor went visiting in Lofa County and returned sick. After spending a few hours at the clinic upon his return, he was discharged. 

    Later that day, a woman took her pregnant daughter to the hospital. The pregnant daughter was admitted on the bed the street vendor had been on, while her mother sat next to her. 

    Eventually, the street vendor, the mother, and 14 members of her family died from Ebola. As Ebola divided the living from the dead, so did it divide little Ganta. People on one side of the road stopped crossing to the side of the road where the family had died. It remained that way till November 2014. 

    Another account says that a boy was home visiting from Lofa County. “The boy brought Ebola home to his mother who cared for him, not knowing it was Ebola,” a contact in Ganta told Gloria. He eventually died, and his mother had him buried. Shortly after, she came down with the illness and also died. She wasn’t just anyone, she was a banker with significant clout across Ganta. People across the town showed up for her burial – many of them believed she was poisoned. 

    In their time at Ganta, Cherry and Blooming stayed in the banker’s compound as a guest of one of its many occupants. When she eventually called Monrovia, Cherry’s first words were “Aunty, I’m sick, and I’ve never felt this sick in my whole life.”

    The pain cut Gloria in half. 

    Cherry is the first grandchild of her family. Her mother had her just before she went to college, and thus, her care became someone else’s responsibility. That someone else was Gloria, and although she was quite young herself, everyone thought she was Cherry’s mother – she in fact raised Cherry like her own daughter.

    “How is Blooming?” Gloria asked.

    “We’re about 11 in the house,” Cherry said, “everyone is sick.” 

    Everyone except Blooming. 

    In August, Nigeria got its first death from the virus that later infected 20 people and killed 8, including Dr Ameyo Adadevoh, the lead doctor who treated the index case. According to the W.H.O., 142 new cases and 77 deaths were recorded in less than three days in August across Guinea, Liberia, Nigeria and Sierra Leone. Less than two weeks earlier, the organisation had declared Ebola in West Africa a public health emergency of international concern. On August 6, two days before, the President of Liberia declared a state of emergency. 

    All attempts by Gloria and her family to find an ambulance available to go to Ganta failed. Emergency services were overwhelmed. Eventually, they found a cab willing to make the 300-kilometre trip.

    Her brother-in-law, a doctor, wasn’t going to let her take the trip. Gloria later said, “They said my B.P. was too high, so he went with his wife – my little sister Rose – and the driver.”

    Cherry was already so weak when they reached Ganta, that she had to crawl into the car herself – no one could help her, because no one could touch her. A man in that compound in Ganta was looking after Blooming as Cherry got sicker. He eventually passed away from Ebola, and his name was Jerry. 

    As the cab headed back to Monrovia, Cherry sat quietly as always, with Blooming on her lap. The doctor urged her to drink water and stay hydrated. “Cherry, please be strong,” Gloria texted. “As long as you reach Monrovia, you’ll be fine. Everything will be fine.”

    On the 8th of August, upon entering Monrovia, Cherry and Blooming were immediately admitted into the Ebola Treatment Unit. From this point on, she no longer had access to a phone. 

    The next morning, Gloria and the family headed to the ETU. The tents were surrounded by a red, mesh fence, a boundary between the agonising pain of the sick, and the gut-wrenching anxiety of their loved ones.

    ETU

    Every day, the bodies kept coming and getting dumped, some dead, some all but dead.

    “Cherry are you there? Can you hear me?” Gloria would shout. 

    A sick man came out of an SUV he’d driven himself and entered the ETU. He was never seen again. 

    “I’m here. We’re here. We’re praying with you!” she’d shout another day. 

    A family of five entered the ETU, holding hands in a single file. They were never seen again. 

    “Nurse, help me, please. Cherry – she’s a soft child. Help me – make sure she eats. Please.”

    “Your daughter is getting weaker by the day,” the nurse said. “But the baby – the baby is here. The baby is fine.”

    It was Sunday the 24th of August before they saw Blooming again. A doctor in a hazmat suit came outside, Blooming in hand. She had no clothes on, only diapers. The doctor raised Blooming as high as his arms could let him. “She’s okay, nothing has happened to her.”

    “Fine. What of Cherry?”

    The doctor turned around and went back in. 

    “How is Cherry?” Gloria asked the next doctor she saw. The response was silence. When the third doctor came out, her brother-in-law had had enough. 

    “Here’s my medical licence,” he said, “can I go in? Whatever happens, is at my own risk.” They agreed, he geared up and went in. 

    When he came out almost thirty minutes later, he was alone. He walked up to them, Rose and Gloria, hugged them tightly. 

    “Let’s go home. We’ve lost Cherry.” 

    Cherry Adikwu passed away after 17 days of fighting Ebola in the ETU. Her body was cremated the next day.

    Early in August, Liberia’s Health authorities had issued a directive that the bodies of all the people killed by the Ebola virus be cremated instead of buried. After Ebola has killed a person, the body of the deceased remains contagious for up to 7 days

    When they saw Blooming again on the 25th of August, a doctor in a hazmat suit held her to her chest, again with no clothes. 

    “We’ve tested this girl three times,” the doctor said. “We’ve sent her blood to Belgium, and all the results say the same thing – she hasn’t caught the virus. We can no longer continue to keep her.”

    And so it was that Blooming, who stayed in a house in Ganta where 11 people got sick, came back to Monrovia sitting on the laps of her sick mother, staying in the ward surrounded by the sick, somehow stayed immune to the virus. 

    She was there, as the virus travelled in the bodies of those around her, forcing their cells to explode, damaging their organs from the inside, and making them bleed from their eyes, ears, mouth, nose, and even give bloody diarrhoea. Blooming was there, seated, and unable to see anything when her mother breathed her last. 

    She was in the thick of it all, and she came out unscathed. 

    2015 study of Ebola survivors found that while some people came in contact with the virus and recovered, another group who came in contact with it never got infected at all. The women in the study “are phenomenal women who have had a horrendous story to tell,” Prof Miles Caroll told Guardian UK. 

    Prof Miles Carroll is a virologist and Head of Research, National Infection Service, Public Health England. The team studied 60 women, including 25 from Guéckédou, the town in Guinea where the West African wave is believed to have started with a 2-year-old boy. The women in the study, despite cleaning up after the sick and caring for them, never got infected. The study suggests that it’s in their genes, and it appears that Blooming’s case fits.

    When Blooming returned home, she returned to a Liberia that was paranoid and on the edge. On the 18th of August, a mob in West Point, Monrovia’s biggest ghetto, had descended upon an Ebola clinic in their neighbourhood, protesting its very presence there. Protests quickly turned violent, leading to the looting of the clinic and the eviction of everyone inside, including the infected. There were real fears that protesters might have gotten infected.

    By the next day, the Liberian government had quarantined West Point and President Sirleaf Johnson had declared a nationwide curfew. By the 22nd, violence broke out again, with the armed forces firing at protesters, killing one teenage boy, and injuring others. 

    Closer to home, Blooming’s household was ostracised by the entire community. No one was taking cash from them, the church community wanted nothing to do with them, and they weren’t allowed into the markets. 

    No one wanted anything to do with a family whose child had returned from the ETU. “This is when I knew that Ebola had really hit us Liberians,” Gloria said.

    The next few months were the hardest. Gloria’s contract at the NGO she worked for had expired in July, and she didn’t renew it. Her mental health depreciated as the weeks went by as she was plunged into shock first, then depression. Her hypertension worsened. 

    In November, President Sirleaf lifted the state of emergency in the country. That same month, Gloria moved out of her family house with Blooming, to a new neighbourhood where no one knew about her or the little one. It was also around this time she began calling Blooming by another name: Miracle. 

    “She was such a strange child,” Gloria said, almost trembling, “she’d sometimes wake me up in the middle of the night. And hug me, and say it’s okay.”

    2015 was when Gloria decided to give life a chance again, “for Miracle”. By April, she got a job working at an NGO, four times less than what she used to earn. But she needed to be with people, and thus, her office became her healing ground.

    To fulfil her need for closure, Gloria held a memorial service for Cherry on August 24th, 2016, two years after she passed. She invited family and friends, with a blown-up portrait of her surrounded by roses. 

    “Like a proper burial,” Gloria said. Every second Wednesday of March since then, she’d buy helium-filled balloons, write little notes in them to Cherry, and release them. Across Liberia, this is called Decoration Day, a national festival Liberians have marked since 1916, where they refurbish the graves of their deceased, clearing away the bushes and cleaning the headstones. 

    Other times, she’d buy roses, drive to a river – any river – and leave the roses there. On the 9th of May 2015, Liberia was declared Ebola-free. 

    Their biggest hurdle now is Miracle’s vision. Glaucoma has no cure, but treatment is possible to slow down further damage and prevent permanent vision loss. Despite her right eye being in better shape, the race to restore Miracle’s vision is a race against time.

    While Gloria struggles to find funding, these days you’ll find Miracle, now 9, in grade school. Whenever she doesn’t show up at her school for the visually impaired, her classmates come to the house to see her, huddled together. She’d crack jokes with them, mostly mimicking Gloria’s speech.

    Keep your sweets, she’ll pass, but in true Liberian fashion, she never turns down Rice and Torborgee or Palava sauce. 

    When music is playing, she sits quietly, absorbs, and sings it later while rocking her tambourine. On Sundays in church, she hangs around the drumset – she loves the bass drum the most. 

    If she feels your presence and likes you, she’ll walk up to you, feel your palms, and ask for your name. When you ask for hers, she’ll say, “my name is Bloomingdale Miracle Adikwu.”

  • This Is What Earning $300 In Liberia Looks Like

    Every week, Zikoko seeks to understand how people move the Naira in and out of their lives. Some stories will be struggle-ish, others will be bougie. All the time, it’ll be revealing.

    The subject of today’s story lived in Nigeria for a while, but he currently lives in his home country, Liberia.


    Tell me about that first cash that you felt was yours.

    Let me start by saying I’m the laziest person I know. When I was a kid, my dad wanted to imbibe reading as a habit into my siblings and I. So what did he do? He’d give us a reading challenge – a book – and then he’d give money to whoever finished first. I always finished first and got the money. This is where the laziness came in. Because I hated doing my laundry, I’d bribe my sisters with the money I got so that they could do my chores. Everyone was happy. 

    But my first real gig was teaching on holidays at a secondary school while I was in Uni. I was getting paid like ₦15-20k per month, in 2012. 

    Okay, post school? 

    Some quick context before we continue, I haven’t lived in Liberia all my life. I actually moved back here after University in 2015.

    You lived in Nigeria.

    Yeah. I wanted to go to Law School here in Liberia – it’s three years – but what happened was, people that were supposed to enter Law School in 2014 didn’t start till the next session in 2015.

    Why? 

    Ebola. Everything stopped, including school. So that means that I couldn’t go to Law School immediately. I gained admission for a Masters Degree in the UK, but I couldn’t afford it. My parents couldn’t too.

    So, still in Nigeria and feeling a little trapped, I applied to volunteer at an NGO. I showed up at the interview, and somehow left with a fulltime job. The gig paid ₦60k a month, and this was 2016. I worked with some of the most amazing people there. But then I left after a few months. 

    Something else clicked?

    My Masters. My parents raised that money, somehow. After my Masters, I made up my mind to move back to Liberia. So in January of 2018, I moved back here. You want to hear something funny? 

    Hit me.

    I celebrated one year of unemployment in January this year. 

    That escalated quickly. What were you doing for one year? 

    I’d come back to Liberia with the hopes of making a difference in my country. I was coming back as a 22-year old with two degrees. I know in Nigeria where you’re coming from, that’s pretty normal. In Liberia, it’s not. Because if you grew up in Liberia, you’re not finishing your first degree till you’re in your late twenties at best. That’s what happens when you factor in a cumulative 14 years of war. 

    For example, I worked as a lecturer briefly – I’ll get to that part – but most of my students were older than me. 

    So, it wasn’t completely rare, but you don’t just run into a 22-year-old like me everywhere you turn. 

    I had big prospects coming back to Liberia and making at least $600 a month, working in the government. I’ll give you context to understand this number. 

    I’m listening. 

    I almost got a job to work with the EU delegation in Liberia for a media role. I was shortlisted, but I didn’t get it. That job would have paid me $2000. 

    In Ellen’s government, I was more confident about getting a job. But when I came, the government had changed, and this government was employing based on party alliances. There’s a song people sing now, it’s called “In The Photo”. 

    What’s that?

    “When they took the photo, I was there. But when the photo came out, I was not there.” Basically, people are saying ah, when you were campaigning, I was there. Now that it’s time to reap the rewards, I’m not there. People loyal to the ruling party still can’t get jobs, and they’re the priority. 

    Inside life. 

    I remember going to one Bureau, and the man looked at me and shook his head. He said, “If you had come under the last government, you would have had a job by tomorrow. But look,” then he brought out a list. 40 people. “These are the people I’m supposed to assimilate into my jurisdiction, and I don’t even have the need for 10 people.”

    I said, oya let me work for free. He said, “I don’t even have space for you to sit down.”

    Case closed. What did you do for the one year? 

    I started writing. I really had nothing else to do. 

    I’m trying to draw a straight line from this writing to how food entered your mouth. Help me out.

    Ah, my father sent me money every month, since he’s the chief supporter of me coming back to Liberia – he’s not in the country, by the way. He helps his boy, as my boss meh. I started helping people research whatever they were working on, for school or work – about six in total. Also, my father has plenty friends, so when I first came back, all those “Ah how are you?” handouts helped a lot.

    How did you end your job drought? 

    My dad came visiting for something else, but it was a good time to have a sitdown. And he went, “You’ve been here for a whole year, and nothing’s happening. Your mother and I have been thinking, and we’ve concluded that we don’t have $100 to be giving you every month.”

    I mean, I understood what he was saying. He’s always had lots of mouths to feed. Every Liberian family fortunate enough, definitely has a lot of mouths to feed. Not like he’s a rich a man. 

    By the end of the conversation, we settled on a February deadline for my last $100.

    My uncles said I came at the wrong time. “When Ellen was here,” they’d say, “there were a lot of NGOs and International Organisations.”

    Back to your dad’s deadline. How did that go? 

    I somehow managed to get a teaching job. I wanted to teach at the Government University, that would have paid me like $300-400 per month. The process was taking too long. Another Private University I applied to gave me an offer, and I was hired. 

    Also, I applied for an internship at an NGO, and got that. My job there was to work with them in documenting stories of change in Liberia, and it felt good to be part of that. Because of this, I actually made up my mind that I was going to teach for only one session, so that I could perhaps, end up working full time for the NGO. 

    So, I was teaching thrice a week, one hour on each day. I was getting paid $120. Then the NGO is paying $150. 

    I freelanced on small research projects too, but it hasn’t come consistently, or paid significantly enough for me to really think of it as a proper source of income. It’s fetched only about $300 this year. 

    Oh wait, another window opened.

    What?

    Remember when we talked about Law School? I got admitted, so it was extra incentive to leave the teaching job. That’s costing $1500 per semester for tuition, but my parents are covering that. 

    2019 looks super packed and busy! And you’re juggling this with the NGO? 

    Yeah. Although, my current contract with the NGO just expired. We’re currently negotiating new terms, and that might pay me between $300-$500, hopefully. 

    What are your running costs these days?

    Tithe: $50

    Data: $30 

    Transport and stuff: $30 x 4

    Obligations: $50

    I’m curious, what does $500 fetch you in a city like Monrovia

    It’s decent. The place I want to get for example is in an estate. It’ll be a two or three-bedroom apartment and I’ll be spending about $150-$200 every month on rent, if they don’t ask for a six-month advance that is. Most people I know pay their rent on a monthly basis.

    There are apartments that go for up to $1500 per month, fully furnished. Those ones tend to go to the expatriates, and there are a lot of them in Monrovia. 

    Also, food is not expensive here. I asked my aunty, and she said $25 is enough to cook Jollof Rice for 5 people. Keep in mind that the portions are larger here, and it’s generally richer that y’all’s Jollof. There’s meat, fish –

    – Let’s be civil, please.

    Hahaha.

    Talking about expatriates, I haven’t heard you mention the Liberian Dollar since we started talking. 

    Yeah, we juggle the two currencies. If you’re working for the U.N. for example, how often do you have to interact with the Liberian Dollar? You’re not buying Pure Water or food for Lapper-Be-Door –

    Lapper be what? 

    Wrapper. Be. Door. It’s like Bukas in Nigeria. They call it that here because most of them have wrappers as doors.

    Ohhhh. 

    So yes, there are people in Liberia that rarely use the Liberian dollar. 

    How are salaries paid then? 

    Some places give you in LD, some pay 50% LD, 50% USD. Government pays roughly between the two currencies. The USD is generally more stable to be paid in. 

    Talking about stability, how unstable is the LD? 

    It just became unstable two years ago. Before, it was plugged at 100. At the beginning of 2019, it wasn’t even up to 200. Now it’s 210 to the USD. People live in the country with two currencies. 

    I actually gathered some of my thoughts about it here. What do you think?

    It’s amusing how strange it is to you. This is how it has always been in Liberia. And there’s a long Americo-Liberia history about it that we can’t even digress to right now.

    How much do you imagine you’d be earning five years? 

    Over a $1000 for sure. I’d be working with an international NGO, with a Law Degree. The good thing is, I’m schooling and working. So I’m building my work experience while getting another degree. 

    You keep talking about NGOs. 

    Yes, those are some of the most aspirational jobs here. And then the government. During Ellen’s government, salaries and benefits were huge. Now, it’s mostly cost cutting. Even some of the NGOs have left. But I still want to work in government. I feel like there’s only so much impact you can make from the outside. 

    Another thing is, Liberia doesn’t have that big of a private sector.

    How do you use money here?

    I just put it in my wallet. I haven’t gotten an ATM, because I don’t need it. 

    Is that just you or it’s a Liberian thing? 

    I think it’s a mixture of both. Because most places you’re going to buy things, there’s no POS. The only reason I’d eventually get an ATM is so I don’t have to queue at the bank. Then there’s also mobile money. 

    About you now, how would you rate your financial happiness? Over 10?

    Three because I could be making more money, but this is the part where I take a small step back, so I can make more money in the future. Because I’m trying to get a law degree full time – it’s three years here – I can’t give work the full time attention it should be getting.

    So every time I think about it, I just tell myself, a little patience, man. A little patience. 


    This conversation was had over lunch at a restaurant in Monrovia in Monrovia a few weeks ago, while on the JollofRoad. The best part? Food was paid for with my Nigerian account; A scan from my app. And pim pim, done. It’s Ecobank Pay.