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algeria | Zikoko!
  • They Eat Every Meal With Olive Oil: Impressions From a Nigerian’s First Time in Algeria

    Sola* walks us through his three-day visit to Algeria, sharing the culture shocks he experienced along the way.

    As told to Boluwatife

    Image designed by Freepik

    I’ve never been much of an adventurous foodie or traveller. I’d only been outside of Nigeria once when I visited Cotonou in 2018, and I had access to the Nigerian food I was familiar with. I think that’s why I still haven’t recovered from the culture shock I experienced during my December 2023 trip to Algeria.

    I didn’t just decide to visit Algeria on a whim. I’m a journalist, and the opportunity to visit the country came when the Algerian government invited my team to cover a conference. 

    My first shock was the visa and travel processes. I knew it was a police state and expected restrictions, especially for journalists, but I assumed it’d be straightforward since we were invited. It wasn’t.

    For one week, we navigated a long back-and-forth process with the Algerian embassy in Abuja, filling out forms in English and Arabic. The embassy in Nigeria initially couldn’t get visa clearance for us from Algeria, and we had to fill out another form specifically for journalists. My team and I finally got our visas two days into the conference and had to rush to catch a flight and meet up.

    After a 14-hour fight, including a stop in Doha, Qatar, we eventually got to Algiers, the capital city. We thought it’d be smooth sailing from this point on, but then we were delayed at the airport for an additional two hours. During this time, we were searched and questioned because of the media equipment we travelled with. We were the only black people in the airport, and I noticed we were gradually getting surrounded by security personnel as we were being questioned. 

    The increased security presence was strategic in a we-take-our-security-serious way, but it reminded me of Nigeria. We wouldn’t have had that ordeal if they had a proper line of communication. It was like one arm of the government invited us, and the other arm had no idea.

    With the visa and travel wahala finally behind us, we were free to do our work and explore Algiers. But the next culture shock was waiting: The food. I mentioned earlier that I’m not an adventurous foodie. I don’t do pass myself. My stomach is somewhat sensitive, so even when I briefly consider switching up my diet, it typically ends at just that — a consideration.

    Algerians eat olive oil with everything. Maybe it’s the hotel we stayed in, but people could be drinking tea and have olive oil by their side. I was so confused. And the bread? It was hard as rocks. Coming from Nigeria, where soft bread is the standard, I was definitely unprepared. 

    A plate of plain bread, crepe and chocolate bread.

    The official languages of Algeria are Arabic and Berber, but they also speak French because France colonised them. The food in the hotel was labelled in French, and I had to use an online translator before ordering. That wasn’t necessarily an issue, but the food itself was mostly always cold and quite bland. No salt or pepper, and there was olive oil and onions in everything. There was also a heavy water shortage. There were different types of drinks, but when it came to water, we’d only get one bottle of water for five people. It was strange.

    A side of purple cabbage and cream to accompany a rice and pasta dish.

    But it wasn’t all bad. On one of the nights, we went to a lounge where a colleague ordered a medium-rare steak. It was the largest steak portion I’ve ever seen in my life. It took my colleague a whole hour to finish it. So, I guess portion-wise, they held nothing back. I had chicken myself, and it wasn’t bad.

    The roads are also amazing. I didn’t see one pot-hole. One night, when we returned to the hotel, we noticed something was wrong with one side of the road. By the next morning, we saw machines fixing it. 

    Did I mention Algeria is a rich country? Almost everyone wore designer outfits – even the security officers wore Rolex watches. Almost everyone smokes too, which I chalked down due to the cold weather. They have a four-day week system, so their weekends start on Thursday. I definitely wasn’t mad at that.

    The Martyrs’ Memorial monument serves as a reminder of the lives lost during Algeria’s fight for Independence.

    I spent three days in Algeria, it’s a really beautiful, well-put-together country. It would have been a 10/10 experience if there wasn’t the food debacle and other culture shocks. Now that I know what to expect regarding the cuisine, I won’t mind visiting again. Maybe by then, I’d have properly researched where to get food I can tolerate.


    *Name was changed for the sake of anonymity.


    NEXT READ: Now They Just Come: A Story of Nigerians Living in Cotonou

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  • This Is What An African Music Hall of Fame Would Look Like

    A hall of fame solidifies the iconic work a person puts into their craft.

    We should have an African music hall of fame, a museum to highlight the impact of its music on society and honour the significant contributors to the industry. But since we don’t have one yet, we can only imagine it would feature these greats.

    Miriam Makeba

    Mama Africa wrote, sang and performed music, acted in movies like “Come Back Africa” and campaigned against the apartheid — even got exiled from South Africa as punishment. While on exile in the U.S, she performed at the birthday party of US President John F. Kennedy at Madison Square Garden in 1962. Due to her exile from South Africa, she moved around a lot, eventually holding nine passports and honorary citizenships from ten countries — her situation is the grace japa warriors pray for. Her discography boasts nine albums, including the Grammy-Award winning “An Evening With Belafonte/Makeba”.

    E.T. Mensah

    The Ghanaian “King of Highlife”, E.T Mensah championed Highlife with his Tempos Band throughout the 1950s. In 1940, he joined the Tempos Band originally created by the European soldiers stationed in Accra. Soon, Mensah became the leader of the band which disbanded and was reshaped in 1946 to consist of only African musicians. Mensah’s popularity grew worldwide when he performed with Louis Armstrong in 1957.

    Angelique Kidjo

    The Beninese singer-songwriter, actress and activist was born into a family of artists. Her father was a musician; mother, a theatre director and choreographer. She first gained success as a teenager with her version of Miriam Makeba’s “Les Trois Z”. She performed as a backup singer for local groups and as a lead vocalist for Pili Pili, an Euro-African jazz and rock band in 1985. In 1991, she signed to Island Records and made four albums. Since then, she’s gone on to record 11 more, with five Grammy Awards to her name.

    Fela Anikulapo-Kuti

    Abami Eda, as Fela’s also called, was a Nigerian musician, bandleader, composer, instrumentalist and activist. His music is robust, endures in relevance, and his lyricism is unapologetic in delivery. He sang in Pidgin English, Yoruba and didn’t cater to the Western audience. As his music grew popular, the ruling class were not having it because of his political messages, and raids were launched on his Kalakuta Republic — his iconic home. Under military rule, Fela’s music grew too political for labels to publish and his commentary brought him at loggerheads with the soldiers. He was in jail for 20 months under Muhammadu Buhari’s first government. After his release, he continued to make and perform music until his death in 1997.

    Brenda Fassie

    She was the IT babe of her era and went by nicknames like MaBrr, Queen of African Pop, The Black Madonna, Madonna of the Township — titles that capture her brilliant musicianship and closeness to the grassroot. Due to the consistent anti-apartheid lyrics in her music, she enjoyed massive popularity. Among her multi-platinum selling albums is “Memeza”, South Africa’s best-selling album of 1998. Brenda’s impact earned her the 17th spot among the top 100 Great South African according to public vote, and the 2005 Lifetime Achievement Award at South African Music Awards.

    King Sunny Ade

    KSA performs juju music crafted out of ancient oriki — poetic lyrics to praise-singing people in high places. He ushered the steel pedal guitar into the Nigerian pop music scene and is the first juju musician to accompany the music with tenor guitar, clarinet, synthesizers and vibraphone in an effort to imitate the traditional juju instruments that were hard to carry on the road. His 1983 album, “Synchro System”, earned him a Grammy nomination — the first for a Nigerian artist. In 1998, he bagged another nomination for his album, “Odu”. Although he’s never won a Grammy, he’s regarded as one of the world’s greatest band leaders. KSA’s elite musicianship shows in his guitar prowess and impeccable dance moves when he comes alive on stage. 

    Oumou Sangaré

    She’s considered the queen of Wassoulou, a region in Mali that heavily inspired her music, which advocates for women’s low status in the society. Oumou has recorded ten albums and received awards like Commander of the Order of Arts and Letters of France (1998), Ambassador of Food and Agriculture Organisation (2003), Artist Award at WOMEX 2017, all for her music and women’s rights advocacy.

    Hugh Maskela

    Dubbed the Father of South African jazz, Hugh Maskela was highly recognised for his beautiful compositions that addressed South African apartheid. While touring Africa in the 1970s, he worked as a teacher for a year in Guinea, played with Fela Kuti’s band and recorded five albums. He has over 45 albums to his name today.

    Umm Kulthum

    Umm Kulthum’s career spanned over four decades, from the 20s to the 70s, and her emotive performances captivated audiences across Africa and beyond. Her vocal range, mastery of maqam (Arabic musical modes) and improvisation made her an unparalleled artist. Her songs explored themes of love, patriotism and social justice, resonating deeply with the Egyptian masses and elevating her to a symbol of cultural identity and national pride. Umm Kulthum passed away in 1975, but her legacy as the “Star of the East” lives on.

    Sir Victor Uwaifo

    A multidisciplinary artist born in Benin, Nigeria, Victor Uwaifo started playing music in secondary school. He played at St. Gregory’s College, in Lagos, and with Victor Olaiya’s All Stars band before moving to E.C Arinze’s highlife group. At 24, he released his popular track, “Joromi”, in 1965 — the same year he founded his Melody Maestros band. The song won him the first gold record certification in Nigeria and Africa, courtesy of Philips, an old British record label. Throughout his career, he experimented and developed sounds like Akwete, Shadow and Ekassa.

    Ali Farka Toure

    Regarded as one of Africa’s most important musicians from Africa, Ali Toure is the creator of desert blues — a fusion of traditional Malian music and African-American blues. Many of his songs have featured in films and documentaries like the geo-quiz segment of The World PRI-BBC, the short film titled “L’Assedio”, 2018’s “Black Panther”, Nintendo’s Animal Crossing games and more. He passed away in 2006, but till today, he’s on the list of 100 greatest guitarists of all time, as seen on Rolling Stone and Spin Magazine.

    Mahotella Queens

    Talent scout and music producer, Rupert Bopape, formed Mahotella Queens in Johannesburg in 1964. Originally a band of five South African women, the supergroup, famous for their unique harmonies, guitar-led mbaqnaga music and fast-paced dance, now has three — Hilda Tloubatla, Nobesuthu Mbadu and Amanda Nkosi. Since the group’s inception, they’ve made hundreds of recordings, mostly for the international audience. Their music has been recognised and sampled by new generation artists like Cassper Nyovest.

    Dorothy Masuka

    https://youtu.be/9owfn3ljW-g

    Dorothy Masuka was a renowned Zimbabwean musician known for her powerful voice and versatility in blending jazz, traditional African rhythm and afro-pop. Her music career began in the 1950s when she moved to South Africa and established herself as a prominent jazz singer. Her 1993 hit song “Hamba Nontsokolo” addressed migrant workers’ struggles and catapulted her to fame. Masuka fearlessly tackled political and social issues through her music, collaborating with notable artists like Miriam Makeba.

    Mounira Mitchala 

    She’s a Chadian musician known for her soulful voice and captivating performances. She blends traditional Chadian melodies with contemporary African and global influences, creating a unique and eclectic sound. Her lyrics are a blend of local languages — Arabic, Sara and French — showcasing her commitment to promoting the language diversity of her country. Mounira has released several critically acclaimed albums, including “Talou Lena” (2010) and “Tchad” (2014). Her music addresses social issues and promotes unity and resilience, elevating Chadian music.

    Khaled

    Algerian singer, songwriter and multi-instrumentalist, Khaled, has been active in the industry since he was 14. His 1986 album, “Kutche”, shot him to the limelight and introduced rai music — an Algerian genre characterised by its folk music, Western influences and elements of pop, reggae, and funk — to a broader audience. Khaled’s bold voice and charismatic stage attracted audiences across continents to rai. His music has influenced artists like Rachid Taha, Acid Arab and Soolking.

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